Dearest Friends:
Have been in La Paz for a few days now, and may have to stay a bit longer than anticipated for additional interviews. So far it has felt a little strange. For some reason, even though it´s a familiar city to me, La Paz is never quite a fit. Arrived and was an insomniac for two days (bedtimes around 4 am), but had lots of fun watching all sorts of great tv. Annie Hall, for instance, dubbed in Spanish (just not quite the same), Breakfast at Tiffany´s, in English (thank you very much). A horribly sad, sad, sad, sad French film which made me boohoo at about 2am (soulmates, he gets lung cancer, attempt at dual suicide fails, he dies, she lives; why do people make these sorts of films?), followed by Maid in Manhattan (it was a necessary distraction following the perfectly depressing french flick), and lots of DW-TV -- all the while with the Illimani looking through my window.
The first day I arrived was nice. There was a great info fair on the Prado (main avenue) and I got lots of great people pictures. Made my phone calls Monday and interviews began today. Just had an excellent one with one of the main legal NGOs. Have two tomorrow.
Today on the other hand started off with me heading for the post office (yes to mail your postcards) and as I walked up the Prado I noticed lots of police in full riot gear standing around (an imposing sight in person). Shortly thereafter I felt glass under foot and noticed that the street was absolutely littered with broken bottles. A bit farther up and there were burnt tires in front of the Plaza Hotel (where I was going to stay). And just about that time, the residues of tear gas (nothing serious) hit me and for a few seconds my eyes were burning. Needless to say my ability to put two and two together was less than impressive.
The real excitement, however, came later in the day -- just before my interview. Just as my driver and I had left the hotel, we saw an angry crowd of people running toward us and away from tear gas canisters that had just been launched, gas streaming. While I was busy trying to roll up the window, the driver popped the car into reverse, did something I´ve only seen my mother do, and we exited stage left. I was more surprised than anything, taking it all in. He was actually pretty shaken, which nearly led to an accident. Two seconds later we´re on the Prado like nothing at all happened. I go into my interview and then to my internet cafe and will soon return to my hotel for dinner. Life in La Paz. At end, I guess not so different from life in other places. Maybe Bush should summit here?
Prior to, had a very interesting dance with an odd bunch at the post office. Owner of a small shop and his friend, soon joined by a third, having a very heated political discussion while I browsed. Very well versed in the literature, political, philosophical and otherwise, sweaters just so, wry humor, intelligent, very anti-american, but nice -- educated. Operating under all sorts of assumptions about me as an American (though only after I told them, b/c at first they thought I was from Spain (a whole other set of assumptions)), at checkout they thought they´d take the opportunity to play with a young, light-headed gringa. Well they got a nice treat and were left speechless. At end, we chatted for about half an hour or so and they simply melted when I let them know (only at the very, very end) half the family is from Bo. Gotcha, boys! Gotta love besting the besters. So now I´ve got a cadre of friends at the post office, which I guess isn´t a bad thing.
Think that´s more than enough for one day; should take care of the sleeplessness. Hope everyone is well.
B.
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